Charmes-Chambertin is a gentle slope, undulating toward the valley floor. Its wines are often similarly gentle: red fruited, svelte and broachable, even at a young age. Thibault Liger-Belair, however, puts a different spin on it. His incantation of holistic farming, reductive handling and bespoke whole-bunch usage, results in wines that are more brooding and muscular, with Charmes’ typically smooth edges.