Cuvée du Cèdre Clos de Vougeot A blend of fruit from propitiously situated plots, sourced from six different growers, across the largest of all of Burgundys Grand Crus. Intentionally, some are prime real estate, directly behind the château; others, on the lower ebbs of the vineyard. Ponsot sees this as a balancing act. A wealth of black cherry, red currant and plum liqueur, framed by the Clos earthenware tannins. A wine that is consistently rated frumps by the worlds eminent Burgundy commentators, this will only grow in stature with extended patience.

This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

LAURENT PONSOT Grand Cru Cuvée de l'Érable , Echezeaux

This tiny vineyard is one of Australia’s most southerly located in the Huon valley in southern Tasmania. So to the name, where does that come from? There was a handwritten sign on the wall at the Red Velvet Lounge in Cygnet, our local coffee and cake respite from the Tasmanian weather. It said, “Sailor Seeks Horse” and went on to explain that the author had sailed solo around the world and ridden across the US from coast to coast and back again…on a mule. He’d then decided he wanted to travel around Tasmania by horse but didn’t have one. So, was there anyone who would lend him one? If they didn’t have a horse then a pony would do. It was an idea that resonated with us. Here we were, trying to do something a little bit crazy, without much money and requiring a little bit of help to get to where we wanted to be. Paul and Gilli Lipscombe own the vineyard and make the wines and both have considerable vineyard and winemaking experience behind them including winning the Jimmy Watson trophy for Home Hill where they have been the winemakers in recent years. From working together in the Languedoc to New Zealand, Oregon and Margaret River they spent a lot of time researching and considering the best possible vineyard site with the aim to produce Australia’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay finally settling on this ideal north facing vineyard which is sheltered from the prevailing south-westerly winds. Best described as a warm site within a cool climate, the soil is free-draining quartz inflected mudstone soil over clay. The vineyard is planted to a large variety of Dijon clones as well as numerous other clones planted by the previous owners and all vineyard work is done as organically as possible. In 2019 a new planting including some Trousseau has been made on the steep north-west facing slope beside the main vineyard block. Even though the 2022 season fell into another La Nina event, there was good rainfall early on and then, as seems normal these days, the tap was turned off in the new year. A fairly pleasant, dry, if not particularly sunny summer with a return to more typical yields compared to 20/21/23. After the previous two years the were able to use more fermenters in the winery with the fruit tasting great and the end of the season finishing off ripening nicely. As the wines developed in barrel some blends were tasted and discovered a combination of the three low-yielding Dijon clones (115, 114 and 777) resulted in a higher-toned, more spice-driven wine with a slightly denser palate weight than the normal Pinot. So they decided to bottle it separately.

JEAN-NOEL GAGNARD Cuvee L'Estimee , Chassagne-Montrachet

Domaine Lamy-Pillot 1er Cru Boudriotte, Chassagne-Montrachet Domaine Lamy-Pillot is a small family-run winery, established in 1973, which counts as relatively youthful for the region. The wines of Lamy-Pillot are consistent and drinkable in the very best sense. The 1er Cru Boudriotte is a Pinot Noir with cherry, raspberry and blackcurrant on its nose. On the palate, there is more of that berry explosion, with strawberries and dark cherries grounded by earthy aniseed and light spice. A hint of oak and fine tannins.