Cuvée du Cèdre Clos de Vougeot A blend of fruit from propitiously situated plots, sourced from six different growers, across the largest of all of Burgundys Grand Crus. Intentionally, some are prime real estate, directly behind the château; others, on the lower ebbs of the vineyard. Ponsot sees this as a balancing act. A wealth of black cherry, red currant and plum liqueur, framed by the Clos earthenware tannins. A wine that is consistently rated frumps by the worlds eminent Burgundy commentators, this will only grow in stature with extended patience.

Domaine Lamy-Pillot 1er Cru Boudriotte, Chassagne-Montrachet Domaine Lamy-Pillot is a small family-run winery, established in 1973, which counts as relatively youthful for the region. The wines of Lamy-Pillot are consistent and drinkable in the very best sense. The 1er Cru Boudriotte is a Pinot Noir with cherry, raspberry and blackcurrant on its nose. On the palate, there is more of that berry explosion, with strawberries and dark cherries grounded by earthy aniseed and light spice. A hint of oak and fine tannins.

JEAN-NOEL GAGNARD Cuvee L'Estimee , Chassagne-Montrachet

Hand picked low yielding vines producing a wine with increased intensity of aroma, flavour, texture and length. Hand picked and fermented with indigenous yeast and matured in French oak for two years..

LAURENT PONSOT Grand Cru Cuvée de l'Érable , Echezeaux

This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

The Yarra Yering Pinot Noir is produced from what are amongst the oldest Pinot Noir vines in the Yarra Valley. Always aristocratic, fragrant with intense aromas of sweet strawberry and ripe plums, the Yarra Yering Pinot rounds out with mouthfilling notes of the same with a length hard to ignore.

As often happens with Calvert, the nose when young is slightly muted and more direct than exotic; pure and fine aromas, not bold and lush. The palate follows on accordingly, with clarity of fruit, roses and florals. Focussed, concentrated yet pure in the mid-palate, with its hallmark mineral texture, its firm but ultimately juicy on the finish. The vines are growing up and were seeing the puppy-fat turn to muscle.