The aspiration of Oakridge LVS -- or Local Vineyard Series -- wines is to be outstanding expressions of single vineyards within the Yarra Valley. Local Vineyard Series wines enable wine lovers to compare and contrast the power of terroir and geography in winemaking. In essence, different grape varieties thrive in different soils, and Yarra Valley terroirs and altitudes vary widely. Oakridges expertise and understanding of the region allows viticulturists and winemakers to match a particular variety with a particular site -- with marvellous results. Almost all LVS wines are cellarworthy. The Willowlake Vineyard is just outside Gladysdale in Victorias Upper Yarra Valley. Planted in 1979 at an elevation 300 metres, the cool-grown Chardonnay here ranks with the regions very best. Add the skills of leading Chardonnay exponent David Bicknell and these hand-picked grapes become wines that express their variety and origin with consummate precision and flair.

In the glass: Vibrant deep purple. On the nose: Blackberry, black cherry, plum, pepper and earth.On the palate: An elegant Gold medal winner with a velvety mouthfeel, intense and juicy layers of black fruits and peppery spice with seasoned oak and fine tannins.

Floral fruit in youth, moving towards biscuity characters with age. A generally softer bodied palate with smoother acids than the Vat 1 and Belford Semillons.

A different expression altogether sans the benefit of bottle age. Youthful. Zesty. Punchy. As filigreed of talcy acidity and fine boned as the rest of the crew, this is guava, lemon grass and sherbet, teeming along a line of candied citrus chew. The wine will blossom in the medium term, but will not shy away from some aged furrows and complexity. Alcohol: 12%. Closure: screwcap. Date tasted: Jan 2018. Drink by: 2029. Price: $35. Rating: 94/100.

The Italian grape, Fiano, is one of Australia's key alternate grape varieties. It is perfectly suited to the climate of the Hunter Valley. An unwooded style, the wine has intense varietal characteristics with aromas of pear and spice. The palate is perfectly balanced between fruit intensity and textural elements from the solids ferment, with a brisk acidity. A food friendly wine ready for immediate enjoyment. A rising star of the Hunter.

Vintage 2021 Region Hunter/Hilltops, NSW. This year's wine is inspired by the classic Alsatian white wines of France, wines that are fruit driven and often a sweet touch. A blend of Semillon, Riesling and Arneis produces a foral driven nose, middle palate sweetness with a crisp citrus finish. A perfect match for cheese and fresh seafood. Drink well chilled.

The love affair with alternative Italian varietals continues at David Hook wines. Pecorino is a new arrival, but it was well worth the wait. So latent yet complex.Pale lemon. Fresh and lifted aromas of citrus, stonefruit and stuck match. Quite rich, ripe and fruit-driven, with layers of white peach and melon, tangy lemon-lime acidity, creamy mouthfeel and texture, and a dry, mouth-watering finish.

COLOUR Pale gold with a fine, persistent bead. BOUQUET Fresh aromas green apples and citrus fruit with a slight toast and biscuit characters from time on lees. PALATE The palate has clean citrus and white nectarine flavours with some toasty and biscuity notes. A long textural palate with a fine, lively bead and a delicate mousse.

The Bimbadgen Palmers Lane Chardonnay 2023 hails from the prestigious Hunter Valley region of New South Wales. This vintage reveals a pale lemon hue, offering delicate aromas of ripe peach, nectarine, and white flowers. On the palate, notes of lemon curd, toasted almonds, and a hint of oak are balanced by a refreshing acidity. A rich and creamy mouthfeel adds depth and complexity to this elegant Chardonnay. The finish is long and lingering, with a touch of minerality. This wine is a testament to the exceptional quality of Bimbadgen Estate's vineyards and their commitment to producing premium wines. Enjoy now or cellar for a few years to allow the flavours to fully develop. Pair with seafood, poultry, or creamy pasta dishes for a delightful gastronomic experience.