Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay The lions share of Trinity Hills grapes comes from the Gimblett Gravels region, in the lee of Roys Hill. The gravelly soils were left behind by the Ngaruroro River as it changed course over time. The low fertility soils offer little kindness to the vines, forcing them to work and work to produce small crops of great flavour and aromatic concentration. The low fertility soils offer little kindness to the vines, forcing them to work and work to produce small crops of great flavour and aromatic concentration. The Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay shows a tight structure and shape, intensity and finesse.

A different expression altogether sans the benefit of bottle age. Youthful. Zesty. Punchy. As filigreed of talcy acidity and fine boned as the rest of the crew, this is guava, lemon grass and sherbet, teeming along a line of candied citrus chew. The wine will blossom in the medium term, but will not shy away from some aged furrows and complexity. Alcohol: 12%. Closure: screwcap. Date tasted: Jan 2018. Drink by: 2029. Price: $35. Rating: 94/100.

Continuing under the stewardship of Usher Tinker, the Pooles Rock wines go from strength to strength. The impressive line up of trophies and gold medals that adorn this label are testament to the purity of this amazing Hunter Valley Semillon. With all the typical austerity and pure lemon and lime zest flavours early in its life, this is a Semillon that will repay the patient in spades with more than a decade in front of it.

Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard is located in East Gippsland, Victoria, within view of the Gippsland Lakes. The 29Ha vineyard was planted between 1995-1997 by the Lightfoot family on their farm Myrtle Point. This Single Block Chardonnay was made from an outstanding parcel of fruit identified in Block 2 within the Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard. The Block 2 Chardonnay develops exceptional concentration of flavour while retaining acidity. 100% Barrel fermentation with wild yeast resulted in a wine of great complexity, depth and texture.

Complex aromas, delicate pear and citrus fruit flavours enhanced by French oak.

Kooyong Clonale Chardonnay has a complex nose with citrus varietal aromas meshed with classy oak. Seamless and creamy on the palate with long, fine cool-climate flavours. Another cracking wine from Sandro Mosele that just oozes quality.

The aspiration of Oakridge LVS -- or Local Vineyard Series -- wines is to be outstanding expressions of single vineyards within the Yarra Valley. Local Vineyard Series wines enable wine lovers to compare and contrast the power of terroir and geography in winemaking. In essence, different grape varieties thrive in different soils, and Yarra Valley terroirs and altitudes vary widely. Oakridges expertise and understanding of the region allows viticulturists and winemakers to match a particular variety with a particular site -- with marvellous results. Almost all LVS wines are cellarworthy. The Willowlake Vineyard is just outside Gladysdale in Victorias Upper Yarra Valley. Planted in 1979 at an elevation 300 metres, the cool-grown Chardonnay here ranks with the regions very best. Add the skills of leading Chardonnay exponent David Bicknell and these hand-picked grapes become wines that express their variety and origin with consummate precision and flair.

The Yarra Valley is one of the heavyweight regions for Australian Chardonnay, with finesse and length of flavour the hallmarks of the regional style. In the glass: Pale lemon green. On the nose: Apple, grapefruit, oatmeal and almond aromas. On the palate: Fine, elegant and poised yet with power and drive and a delicious core of white and yellow fruits. A savoury, almost salty layer adds complexity, velvety texture and racy acidity.