Champagne authority Peter Liem writes that “among all Champagne villages, Aӱ is the most historically esteemed… Today, its terroir is still just as storied, and its grapes are sought after by winemakers across the region.” It is perhaps no surprise that the poet Alfred de Vigny declared in 1853 that “the mousse of Aÿ radiates happiness”. From a Grand Cru where Pinot Noir reigns supreme, Bérêche’s cuvée is sourced from less than a hectare of 40+-year-old vines at 280 metres’ elevation in the cool parcels of Brise Pot and Froide-Terre, bordering Mutigny in Grande Vallée de la Marne, where thin topsoils (at a maximum of 30cm) rest over dense Campanian chalk. Pinot Noir (75%) and Chardonnay (25%) fermented slowly in barrels and aged on lees in bottle for 78 months. The dosage was under 3 g/L. It’s a striking, penetrating Champagne whose depth of crystalline white fruits and soft spices is matched by its sinewy, chalky length and cut-glass precision. A flat-out stunner.

Suenen crafts just a single 600-litre demi-muid of this cuvée. It originates from a parcel of particularly low-yielding vines planted in Chouilly’s renowned Le Mont-Aigu terroir, near the Cramant border on the Butte de Saran. Now more than 45 years of age, these old vines suffer from fanleaf virus, resulting in tiny leaves, roots and bunches. Coupled with skeletal soils (just 35 cm of topsoil over pure chalk), this results in a deep yet compact expression of Chouilly that is unlike any other. Expect flesh and concentrated ripeness yet also chiselled structure and intense, saline minerality.

The most northern of Suenen’s Oiry parcels, La Cocluette is also home to the domaine’s oldest vines (planted in 1925), a site where the ancient roots bury deep into the dense Campanian chalk (the younger plantings from this site go into the Oiry Blanc de Blancs). Vines of this age are as rare as hens’ teeth in Champagne, and they gift tiny yields of concentrated berries. The land here is largely flat with a somewhat northern exposure. Here the base wine fermented naturally and aged for nine months in one 700-litre concrete egg and one 600-litre Stockinger barrel (the same that is used each year). It then aged sur lies for 60 months in bottle until disgorgement in July 2022, when it was dosed with 3 g/L. Suenen explains that the wines from this vineyard express themselves with great finesse. “The energy brought by this calcium-rich terroir makes the mouthfeel richer through a silky bubble. With time, the finish lengthens on a salivating mineral vibrancy.” Put another way, this is a more intense and complex expression of this region’s naked-chalk terroir than the NV Oiry

The Champagne Bérêche et Fils Ludes Premier Cru Le Cran (Disg. Jul 2024) 2017 is a stunning example of the quality and craftsmanship that can be found in the Champagne region of France. This vintage, produced by renowned winemaker Raphael Bérêche, displays a pale golden color with delicate bubbles dancing in the glass. On the nose, aromas of green apple, citrus, and brioche entice the senses. The palate is crisp and refreshing, with notes of lemon, pear, and a hint of toasted almonds. This champagne boasts a fine balance of acidity and minerality, with a long, elegant finish. It is a true reflection of the terroir and the skill of its producer. Enjoy now or cellar for a few years to fully appreciate its complexity and depth. Santé!

Produced in the renowned Champagne region of France, the 2008 Clos Lanson Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut is a truly exceptional vintage. With a bright golden colour and fine, persistent bubbles, this 1500ml bottle is a feast for the eyes. The nose is immediately greeted with aromas of freshly baked brioche, lemon zest, and a hint of honey. On the palate, the wine is crisp and vibrant, with a perfect balance of delicate minerality and zesty citrus flavours. As it lingers on the tongue, notes of apricot and white flowers emerge, adding depth and complexity to this already exquisite Champagne. The finish is long and elegant, leaving a lingering impression of sophistication and refinement. This is a must-try for any Champagne lover, and a true testament to the quality of Lanson's winemaking.

The Champagne Larmandier Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs (Disg. TBC) 2015 is an exceptional representation of a premier cru Champagne from the renowned Larmandier-Bernier estate in France. This 1500ml bottle, produced in the exceptional 2015 vintage, showcases the true essence of the terroir in which it was grown. On the nose, this Champagne offers an enticing bouquet of fresh citrus, green apple, and delicate floral notes. The pale golden colour is a testament to the wine's purity and elegance. On the palate, the Champagne Larmandier Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs delivers a crisp and refreshing experience, with a perfect balance of zesty acidity and creamy texture. Flavors of lemon, pear, and brioche dance on the palate, leading to a long and satisfying finish. Overall, this Champagne is a true expression of the Larmandier-Bernier house style, showcasing their commitment to producing exceptional wines that capture the essence of Champagne. A true delight for any Champagne lover.

The Champagne Pascal Agrapart Grand Cru Vénus Blanc de Blancs 2019 (Disg. Jul 24) 2018 is a stunning expression of French excellence. This vintage 2018 wine hails from the renowned Champagne region of France and is produced by the esteemed Agrapart Maison. Upon first glance, the wine boasts a pale golden hue with delicate bubbles dancing in the glass. On the nose, aromas of fresh citrus, ripe peach, and subtle hints of brioche invite you in for a taste. On the palate, the wine is equally impressive with a rich and creamy texture, balanced by zesty acidity and flavors of green apple, lemon curd, and a touch of minerality. The finish is long and lingering, leaving you with a sense of elegance and sophistication. This Blanc de Blancs is a true gem, perfect for any special occasion or celebration.