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Château Mouton Rothschild is the work of one man, the legendary Baron Philippe, who is solely responsible for this giant of Bordeaux. Taking charge in 1923 until his death in 1988, he created something the world will always be in debt for. He also started the tradition of getting an artist to design a label for every vintage, a tradition that continues to this day. In 2009, the wine almost transcends perfection. A quite low alcohol percentage given the ripeness of the fruit, the bouquet is reminiscent of cigar box and graphite with violets and cassis playing a part. The palate is both restrained and concentrated, a impressive result indeed. The structure of the wine is hidden somewhat by the exuberant fruit, yet it is that structure that will see this extraordinary wine cellar for the good part of half a century!

A very important estate in St-Émilion, Château Angélus was acquired by the de Boüard de Laforest family in 1924 and merged with the previously owned Château Mazerat. The apostrophe was dropped in 1989 and is now simply known as Angélus. The wines are characterised by a fabulous texture offered by the high component of Cabernet Franc with the plump softness added by the Merlot creating a wine of pleasing plushness.

Without a doubt one of Bordeaux's most famous vineyards, Cheval Blanc lies on the border of Pomerol and is also easily the most important estate in St-Émilion. Uniquely a blend dominated by Cabernet Franc, Cheval Blanc's wines have a powerful bouquet which is spicy and rich which is followed by fruit that is soft, mellow and liquorous. Matched only by Pétrus in the realm of vigour and concentration, Cheval's exuberance is not to be missed. With this latest release, the 2009, the wines are bordering on immortal. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, this super-smooth, velour textured and opulent red wine shows rambunctious flavours of raspberries, blueberries, liquorice and a smidge of menthol. Will be fascinating to watch this