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McHenry Hohnen was founded in 2004 by pioneering Margaret River winemaker (Cape Mentelle) and third-generation farmer David Hohnen and his brother-in-law, grape-grower and wine retailer Murray McHenry. With an ethos of quality over quantity, we create small lots of expressive, authentic, fine wines, says Hohnen. Three vineyards, in the central-southern part of Margaret River, are farmed organically and/or biodynamically. Laterite Hills Chardonnay is a blend of material from these family-owned and farmed vineyards -- Burnside, Calgardup and Hazels. The wine takes its name from the generally lateritic soils of Margaret River south and is made in the same way as the three single-vineyard Chardonnays. Fruit is hand picked and whole bunch pressed, before undergoing wild yeast fermentation and six months maturation in French oak barriques (20% new). The wine is then transferred to tank for a further three months maturation on lees. It is clarified but not filtered before bottling.

Josef Chromy Chardonnay is a classic cool climate style, showing notes of melon and granny smith apple, some mid palate creamy richness and taut linear acidity. Fruit is sourced from Josef Chromys estate vineyards in Relbia in Northern Tasmania. The Chardonnay is gently pressed to stainless steel for a cool ferment with full solids retained for fermentation to give richness and texture.

This wine is distinguished by a golden dress with green reflections. The nose is blossomed and reveals fresh citrus aromas (lemon, grapefruits) as well as acacia flowers.

A different expression altogether sans the benefit of bottle age. Youthful. Zesty. Punchy. As filigreed of talcy acidity and fine boned as the rest of the crew, this is guava, lemon grass and sherbet, teeming along a line of candied citrus chew. The wine will blossom in the medium term, but will not shy away from some aged furrows and complexity. Alcohol: 12%. Closure: screwcap. Date tasted: Jan 2018. Drink by: 2029. Price: $35. Rating: 94/100.

COLOUR Pale gold with a fine, persistent bead. BOUQUET Fresh aromas green apples and citrus fruit with a slight toast and biscuit characters from time on lees. PALATE The palate has clean citrus and white nectarine flavours with some toasty and biscuity notes. A long textural palate with a fine, lively bead and a delicate mousse.

Continuing under the stewardship of Usher Tinker, the Pooles Rock wines go from strength to strength. The impressive line up of trophies and gold medals that adorn this label are testament to the purity of this amazing Hunter Valley Semillon. With all the typical austerity and pure lemon and lime zest flavours early in its life, this is a Semillon that will repay the patient in spades with more than a decade in front of it.

Located in the picturesque North Island of New Zealand, Te Mata produces a Chardonnay that has ripe stonefruit and citrus characters along with a rich and textural mouthfeel. Fermented in seasoned oak barrels to produce a creamy, rich and elegant wine.

The Stockhausen Chardonnay was created by Briar Ridge in a style paying homage to the pioneers of the Hunter Valley around 40 years ago. It is rich and creamy with ripe peach and tropical notes.