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Beginning with mineral grapefruit and flinty notes on the nose, this wine opens up superbly on the palate. Long, deep and subtle in flavour with crisp acid which completes a fine example of the style.

Yabby Lake Chardonnay is a fine, elegantly structured Chardonnay which is still developing. Subtle, toasty oak provides a background for the citrus and white peach flavours and the acidity lingers and extends the finish.

McHenry Hohnen was founded in 2004 by pioneering Margaret River winemaker (Cape Mentelle) and third-generation farmer David Hohnen and his brother-in-law, grape-grower and wine retailer Murray McHenry. With an ethos of quality over quantity, we create small lots of expressive, authentic, fine wines, says Hohnen. Three vineyards, in the central-southern part of Margaret River, are farmed organically and/or biodynamically. Laterite Hills Chardonnay is a blend of material from these family-owned and farmed vineyards -- Burnside, Calgardup and Hazels. The wine takes its name from the generally lateritic soils of Margaret River south and is made in the same way as the three single-vineyard Chardonnays. Fruit is hand picked and whole bunch pressed, before undergoing wild yeast fermentation and six months maturation in French oak barriques (20% new). The wine is then transferred to tank for a further three months maturation on lees. It is clarified but not filtered before bottling.

Josef Chromy Chardonnay is a classic cool climate style, showing notes of melon and granny smith apple, some mid palate creamy richness and taut linear acidity. Fruit is sourced from Josef Chromys estate vineyards in Relbia in Northern Tasmania. The Chardonnay is gently pressed to stainless steel for a cool ferment with full solids retained for fermentation to give richness and texture.

This wine is distinguished by a golden dress with green reflections. The nose is blossomed and reveals fresh citrus aromas (lemon, grapefruits) as well as acacia flowers.

A very generous style of Hunter Chardonnay that will appeal to those who prefer a more traditional style. Made by gun winemaker Scott Comyns.Medium gold in the glass. Plush and lifted aromas of peach, melon and sweet oak. Very traditional and full-bodied, with a sweet, plush and juicy mix of stonefruit and vanilla biscuit, velvety acidity and plenty of oak in balance with the rich fruit.

A different expression altogether sans the benefit of bottle age. Youthful. Zesty. Punchy. As filigreed of talcy acidity and fine boned as the rest of the crew, this is guava, lemon grass and sherbet, teeming along a line of candied citrus chew. The wine will blossom in the medium term, but will not shy away from some aged furrows and complexity. Alcohol: 12%. Closure: screwcap. Date tasted: Jan 2018. Drink by: 2029. Price: $35. Rating: 94/100.