$100 and over
Weinbach Alsace Clos des Capucins Pinot Noir
Biodynamic. The standard of Weinbach’s Pinot has gone through the roof. There are now five single-vineyard Pinots in the range. The Clos des Capucins bottling leans towards early-ish drinking, with quality pitched towards the village-level wines of Burgundy. Stylistically, it can equally resemble the high-grown Pinots from the Jura or even the best German Pinots as much as those of the Côte d’Or. The fruit fermented spontaneously with 20% bunches and spent about 20 days on skins. It was raised in mature Burgundy barrels for 14 months before being bottled unfiltered. The result is a beautiful expression of Pinot Noir, combining subtle tannins, refreshing texture and a mouth-watering, powdery close. This is very, very good—a unique and terrific alternative to Burgundy.
Weinbach Alsace Weinbach Altenbourg Riesling
Biodynamic. Dry. In Alsace, the term Pinot Blanc is used to describe varietal wines or blends containing any percentage of Auxerrois. Weinbach’s Pinot Blanc is a blend of 70% Auxerrois and 30% Pinot Blanc. For fellow nerds, recent DNA studies indicate Auxerrois is a cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir. Weinbach’s blend comes from Clos des Capucins (with 45-year-old vines) and a plot from the limestone/clay soils at the foot of the Altenbourg vineyard. As with the dry Rieslings, the Pinot Blanc was pressed as whole bunches and raised over eight months in large-format wood (previous vintages were raised in tank). It's a far more layered and complex wine than you might expect from these varieties. It’s fleshy and mouth-filling with orchard fruits, white blossom and chamomile flavours and a textural core threaded through with punchy freshness. As with all these 2022s, it’s very hard to drink slowly!
Weinbach Alsace Altenbourg Pinot Noir
Biodynamic. Eddy Faller explains that his Altenbourg Pinot Noir exhibits a more velvety structure than the Schlossberg-raised wine (below). To highlight each wine’s origins, the winemaking is almost identical, with a 10-day cold soak, followed by up to two weeks on skins, partial whole-bunch fermentation and extended aging in predominantly old oak. Plantings are 10,000 vines per hectare using mass selections from the Clos des Epeneaux in Pommard. To recycle Pigott’s line for the 2020 release, ‘In a blind tasting you could easily mistake this for a top 1er Cru wine from Beaune in Burgundy!’
Weinbach Alsace La Colline Du Château Pinot Noir
This wine is named after this Schlossberg lieu-dit’s cadastral name, Au Château. The building referenced in the name is the iconic Château de Kaysersberg, whose ruins preside over the town and lie a stone’s throw from the western boundary of the Schlossberg Grand Cru. With precious few bottles, we have yet to taste this release. However, Eddy Faller explains that the granitic soils give this bottling a more linear and ‘smoky’ mineral style compared to the rounder, more supple limestone-raised Altenbourg. Cropped from steeply terraced, pre-clonal era 1960s vines, it was fermented with 20% bunches and aged for two years in Burgundian barrels (20% new); Pigott’s note below reflects a terrific year for Alsace Pinot and the great strides Weinbach has made under the current generation
Bouchard Meursault Genevrières
Bouchard Meursault Genevrières is a vineyard that must have been surrounded by junipers years ago as the name continues to live on. A Premier Cru vineyard that must be considered the equal to many Grand Cru with the delicate and complex aromas, flavours and textures that endear the Burgundian Chardonnay style to so many. Meursault Genevrières is the perfect definition of power and elegance.
Château Cos D'Estournel Blanc Saint-Estèphe
A blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon from Chateau Cos d''Estournel, the landmark producer from Medoc. Sourced from their vineyards in the south of St-Estephe, this detailed and gloriously textured white wine displays the complexities requisite of cellarable Bordeaux blanc wines. The wine is drinkable immediately, but will also reward those considering some mellowing and honeyed complexity that comes with cellaring.
Robert Weil Kiedrich Klosterberg Riesling Trocken
Robert Weil Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Spatlese
Robert Weil Kiedrich Grafenberg Grosses Gewachs Riesling Trocken
Penfolds Bin 19A Chardonnay
Soaring and intense white peach fruits, interwoven nuttiness, crème brûlée, and a heightened leesy texture framed by bracing acidity.A square-jawed Bin A with undoubted opulence on the nose and also on the initial hit of flavour on the palate, but the gate comes down early doors and it leaves you with the notion that you have just been locked out of a very promising party. Unlike Bin 311, I think that this wine will segue smoothly into a ravishing beauty, given a few years, after all, it has an epic track record on its side. The fruit has flashes of white peach and Comice pear but the overriding theme is ‘white’, with blanche neige purity and a more than a little gusto under the bonnet. This is one of the most impressive and consistently excellent Chardonnays in the country and 2019 continues this impeccable track record. 19+/20 (Drink 2023 – 2032) - Matthew Jukes.