MAX FERD RICHTER Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling-Beerenauslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

SCHAFER-FROHLICH Bockenauer Felseneck GK Riesling-Auslese, Nahe

REICHSTRAT VON BUHL Grosses Gewachs Pechstein Riesling

Purity, drive, a vibrant quality that gives us pause. There is power that builds, a precise line that follows through to a remarkable length. This clone of riesling lends itself to a winemaking philosophy that utilises smaller bunches for greater fruit concentration, complexity and lift on the palate from extended lees maturation. Flavours in the apple spectrum with underlying power, full in the mid-palate with hints of creamy complexity and lingering white fruit intensity, its texture is layered, as the clone celebrates its unique qualities with the occasional surprise. For 40 years, Grosset have crushed and fermented various clones of riesling separately. These clonal components are typically blended or reunited according to the source vineyard, prior to bottling. Having a vineyard planted to a mix of clones has been shown to contribute to the consistency and complexity of the single vineyard rieslings. Four years ago, Jeffrey’s daughter Georgie suggested they bottle a few dozen of each riesling clone from different vineyards and taste each over time. One clone consistently expressed more concentration and persistence, but was less fruity. At the Rockwood vineyard (ACO certified organic), just one clone is planted on a strip of silty loam over red rock. The riesling berries and bunches are small. The clone is the one noted as exceptional. The fourth vintage of this single clone - 110 - riesling is as stunning as the previous releases - and subtley different from them. It's still sourced from the tiny plantings of the clone on the biodynamic Rockwood Vineyard. Georgie Grosset is still perfectly happy to remind her Dad that she suggested the clone was so different from the other Grosset rieslings that it needed to be bottled separately. Almost overwhelming, voluminous perfumes leap from the glass signifying that this is special. There's a generosity on the palate, too, expansive, even a touch dramatic, showing lemongrass and lemon drop flavours. There's a depth of flavour, a hint of herbs, perhaps coriander, cumin, sage giving depth to the limey flavours; a tingle on the mid-palate, and bright vibrant acidity which defines the finish.