Thörle Schlossberg Riesling, Rheinhessen This single vineyard wine comes from the Schlossberg Vineyard at Saulheim in the north-eastern sector of Rheinhessen, the largest of Germany’s 13 major wine-producing regions. The vineyard lies at an elevation of between 170 and 235m and is the coolest of Thörle’s three top sites. The deep clay and limestone soils effectively store heat and water. The amphitheatre-like Schlossberg has a unique microclimate, protected from winds by the surrounding hills, yet with a direct, tunnel-like connection to the Rhine which enables a constant supply of warm air to Schlossberg even on cold autumn days. Schlossberg Rieslings have finesse and are commonly mineral, delicate and earthy, with good acidity. They are Thörle’s most elegant wines. The Thörle family has been making wine at Saulheim in Germany's Rheinhessen region since the 16th century. Christoph Thörle and his brother Johannes have been running the estate since 2006. The vineyards are managed organically. These three flagships, single vineyard wines are naturally fermented, with some skin contact, 90% in stainless steel, 10% in barrel.

Biodynamic. Dry. In Alsace, the term Pinot Blanc is used to describe varietal wines or blends containing any percentage of Auxerrois. Weinbach’s Pinot Blanc is a blend of 70% Auxerrois and 30% Pinot Blanc. For fellow nerds, recent DNA studies indicate Auxerrois is a cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir. Weinbach’s blend comes from Clos des Capucins (with 45-year-old vines) and a plot from the limestone/clay soils at the foot of the Altenbourg vineyard. As with the dry Rieslings, the Pinot Blanc was pressed as whole bunches and raised over eight months in large-format wood (previous vintages were raised in tank). It's a far more layered and complex wine than you might expect from these varieties. It’s fleshy and mouth-filling with orchard fruits, white blossom and chamomile flavours and a textural core threaded through with punchy freshness. As with all these 2022s, it’s very hard to drink slowly!

Biodynamic. Eddy Faller explains that his Altenbourg Pinot Noir exhibits a more velvety structure than the Schlossberg-raised wine (below). To highlight each wine’s origins, the winemaking is almost identical, with a 10-day cold soak, followed by up to two weeks on skins, partial whole-bunch fermentation and extended aging in predominantly old oak. Plantings are 10,000 vines per hectare using mass selections from the Clos des Epeneaux in Pommard. To recycle Pigott’s line for the 2020 release, ‘In a blind tasting you could easily mistake this for a top 1er Cru wine from Beaune in Burgundy!’

Biodynamic. Primarily responsible for the Weinbach we know today, Catherine Faller’s mother, Colette Faller, was one of the legends of Alsatian wine. Sadly, Madame Faller passed away in early 2015 and, like her daughter Laurence and husband Théo before her, is now immortalised by a wine bearing her name. This cuvée comes from 50- to 60-year-old vines in the Bonnes Terres terroir, lower down on the Schlossberg slope, where the soils are deeper and sandier. The fruit here tends to be picked a touch later. Accordingly, the register of flavours is more intense, running from white flowers to tropical fruits and citrus fruit zest. The wine’s power is balanced by great freshness and verve. Even though it comes entirely from Schlossberg, some of the vines fall outside the Grand Cru boundary, so it cannot be labelled as such. The domaine has applied for Premier Cru status. But no matter, it offers Grand Cru quality in the glass. This gorgeous dry Riesling was raised for 11 months in old oak casks and bottled unfiltered.

The Domäne Serrig Kabinett 2020 is a beautifully crafted wine from the renowned Mosel region in Germany. This vintage, produced by the esteemed Domäne Serrig, is a true testament to the quality of German winemaking. Upon pouring, the wine reveals a pale straw colour with hints of green, reminiscent of the vibrant and lush hills of Mosel. On the nose, delicate aromas of crisp green apple, juicy pear and zesty citrus dance playfully, intermingled with subtle floral notes. On the palate, the wine is elegant and refined, with a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. Crisp flavours of green apple and pear are complemented by hints of lime and nectarine, leading to a clean and refreshing finish. Overall, the Domäne Serrig Kabinett 2020 is a delightful representation of the terroir of Mosel. It is a must-try for any lover of German wines, and will surely leave a lasting impression.