A vibrant, warm vintage is on full show here, with just enough oak coming through to ensure that—while it’s drinking superbly now—it’ll still thrive with another year or two in the cellar.

The Heemskerk Chardonnay displays an elegant cool-climate style with a brilliant pale golden color and enticing aromas of white peach, nectarine, lemon zest, toasted almonds and brioche. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied with a creamy texture balanced by bright acidity. Flavors of ripe stone fruits, citrus and a hint of struck match are complemented by nuances of grilled nuts and a saline minerality characteristic of the Coal River Valley. The wine strikes a beautiful balance between rich fruit flavors, subtle oak influence, and a vibrant acid backbone, resulting in a complex and age-worthy expression of Tasmanian Chardonnay.

Montée de Tonnerre is often regarded as the most complete of the Chablis Premier Crus, and Domaine Bernard Defaix has a long-standing reputation for producing serious, age-worthy wines from this site. Located just east of the Grands Crus, the vineyard shares a similar exposure and Kimmeridgian soils, giving wines of depth and line. The Defaix family has farmed organically here since 2009. Fermentation and maturation occur in a blend of stainless steel and older oak, imparting structure without overt wood influence. Each year, the wine exhibits a clear saline line, with notes of citrus, fennel, and oyster shell on the nose, followed by a mouthful of white stone fruit, a mineral cut, and a long, tapering finish. It opens up well with time in bottle and comfortably rewards cellaring. For those who prize Chablis with both detail and drive, this is a benchmark example of the style and the Montée de Tonnerre vineyard.

The aspiration of Oakridge LVS -- or Local Vineyard Series -- wines is to be outstanding expressions of single vineyards within the Yarra Valley. Local Vineyard Series wines enable wine lovers to compare and contrast the power of terroir and geography in winemaking. In essence, different grape varieties thrive in different soils, and Yarra Valley terroirs and altitudes vary widely. Oakridges expertise and understanding of the region allows viticulturists and winemakers to match a particular variety with a particular site -- with marvellous results. Almost all LVS wines are cellarworthy. The Willowlake Vineyard is just outside Gladysdale in Victorias Upper Yarra Valley. Planted in 1979 at an elevation 300 metres, the cool-grown Chardonnay here ranks with the regions very best. Add the skills of leading Chardonnay exponent David Bicknell and these hand-picked grapes become wines that express their variety and origin with consummate precision and flair.

PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune blanc