Dom Pérignon is the most famous Champagne in the world, and for good reason. The bouquet sparkles with delicate fresh violets in a setting of white peaches. The soft delicate flavours continue while the senses are tickled by the most delicate of fine bubbles. Though this is such a fine delicate wine, the complexity is astounding, along with its length. Stunning.

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne is the finest expression of the world famous wine from one of the greatest Champagne Houses. First produced in 1952, Comtes is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes from 6 Grand Cru sites in the Cité de Blancs. Showing a pristine pale yellow colour with very light, abundant bubbles which rise uniformly to form a fine mousse. The evocative bouquet opens with notes of pears and fresh cute white flowers. Left in the glass for a time, the nose develops a richness and density of pure character. Once on the palate, Comtes is lively, direct and precise with flavours of candied lemon zest and fresh pineapple. The balance is something to behold. This Champagne's marriage of finesse and aromatic intensity is a promise of further potential, but already offers very pleasurable drinking.

PENFOLDS X Thienot Lot 1 175 Blanc de Blanc, Champagne

In the glass: Fine straw yellow with a very slow release fine bead. On the nose: Nectarine and peach over hazelnut with leesy richness. On the palate: Intense and elegant with white peach and white strawberry umami plus fine elements of flint, struck match and velvety roundness under a bright, racy frame of acidity. Deliciously mouth-watering and crisp yet so flavoursome.

Bollinger B13 Champagne Bollinger has also released an iconoclast. B13. An extremely limited wine crafted across five indomitable Crus, half of which is equal parts Äy and Verzenay. The wine is a testimony to the frigid nature of the 2013 vintage and the late harvest that was necessitated through the eye of a needle marked by sleet, snow and frost. It was this slim window of opportunity that Bollinger perceived as one of marginality; extremes and the sort of challenges that demand courage. For it is these qualities that define the worlds very greatest wines. Aged for more than seven years on lees, bolstered by old reserve wines aged in magnums and the signature skilled oak handling, this is a one-off prestige cuvée in every sense of the term. Power, precision and immense potential, all signatures. Jangly stone fruits and a smoky, pungent mineral underbelly. Richard Juhlin, the worlds pre-eminent commentator on the region opines that it is precisely the symphonic harmony that impresses most, before suggesting that the wine needs time in the cellar. Essie Avellan MW calls it my favourite of Bollinger Limited Editions so far! The Champagne received 95 points from each.