This is drawn from two parcels on the steep, granitic slopes of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, the historic heart of Saint-Joseph that lies opposite the hill of Hermitage. Three-quarters of the blend comes from 1980s planted Syrah, while the remainder of the vines were planted in the 1950s. Both parcels are organically farmed without herbicides by the Desbos family, and both lie on steep gradients that necessitate work by hand and horse only. In the cellar, the winemakers work with around 20 to 30% whole bunches, and the wine matures for one year in used ex-Burgundy 228-litre oak casks for 11 months, followed by six months in tronconique. Bottled unfiltered, it’s a layered, deep, rocky style of St-Jo, with taut red and blue fruits complemented by crushed stone, dried dark flowers and iron filing nuances.

The Torbreck Les Amis Grenache is aged for 18 months in new oak and is a remarkably fragrant wine that shows abundant aromas of spice, cherry and wild raspberry. Textured and plush on the palate, it evolves into layers of blackberry and red currants with firm, ripe tannins. David Powell continues to lead this formidable Barossa wine estate to truly remarkable heights.

The Rozas 1er cru Garnacha is, as the name says, classified premier cru by Comando G. Elegant and poised, this wine is a step up in classification and altitude, sitting above the Rozas Villages vineyards close to the ceiling beyond which growing grapes isn't really viable. The brick-red tinge to the colour bring Langhe to mind, Nebbiolo specifically, and there are more hints of that in the glass. The colour and the approachability owe a lot to the greater presence of silt midst the layers of granite. For the 1er cru, the vines are older, the soils are lighter and the altitude of the vineyard is higher than the village showing that signature highwire Sierra de Gredos/Comando G acidity.

DOMAINE RAYMOND USSEGLIO & FILS, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Imperiale

Clos Saouma Arioso Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape This is sourced entirely from the Lieu-dit of Pierredon and 100% Grenache Blanc. Its vinified the same way as the Magis see above however the élevage is just one single 500 litre demi-mud for 36 months on full lees, no racking/sulphur for the full period.

For this Grenache blend, grapes are hand-picked, with double sorting at the vine, followed by a third sorting at the winery. Gentle crushing and selective destemming, followed by 25-40 days' traditional fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Pneumatic pressing, then systematic malolactic fermentation. A classic red Châteauneuf-du-Pape by Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, very fine and elegant. The best vintages will age for 25 years and more.