Christmas cake dark colour, with tinges of olive green at the rim. Thick and viscous in the glass. The aromas combine the impression of great age with tremendous vitality. Deep and brooding, reminiscent of curious characters such as cold tea, leather, tobacco and malt, coupled with pretty honeysuckle and barley sugar notes. Then the flavours, simultaneously almost impossibly sweet, tart and intense. It has rich malt, polished leather, bursts of raisined fruit, vibrant spice and earthy warmth. The initial sweetness gives way to mouth watering acidity and tactile graininess followed by a constantly developing finish that lasts for minutes. Almost overwhelming at first, even the tiniest sip is immensely satisfying and yet decadently moreish.

Quinta do Noval is the go to Port house for those who prefer VP in a more elegant guise. 1995 was a terrific year at Noval and now almost 20 years old, it is a beautifully balanced and supple wine with a lush, plump texture and smooth, round tannins. Intense flavours of plums, raisins and dark chocolate abound with a hint of secondary development now peaking through.

The important Sauternes property Chateau Suduiraut lies alongside Chateau dYquem and was ranked 1er Cru in the Bordeaux classification of 1855. Suduiraut can boast a history going back to 1580 although in 1992 it joined a family of properties, including Chateau Pichon Baron in Pauillac and Chateau Petit Village in Pomerol, owned by the French insurance giant AXA. Suduiraut, noted for its finesse and subtle complexity, is one of a small group of Sauternes producers which have emerged as worthy rivals to their famous neighbour. The 200ha property has 92ha under vine, mostly on gravel, sand and clay soils.

SCHAFER-FROHLICH Bockenauer Felseneck GK Riesling-Auslese, Nahe

FRITZ HAAG Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling-Beerenauslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Launched in October 2024, Quinta do Noval’s 50 Year Old Tawny Port joins a small list of wines from producers taking up the new category, which was formally introduced in January 2022. This extraordinary wine was crafted from estate-grown fruit grown in the Vale de Mendiz. It is a traditional multi-varietal field blend of Touriga Nacional, Sousão, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Francesa, among others. After decades of aging in oak barrels, during which time a very high proportion will have evaporated, this remarkable wine has acquired a complex intensity of flavours and austere purity that take Noval Tawny Port to an even higher level.

The oldest British-owned Port house, Warre's was founded by two young entrepreneurs Clarke and Thornton in 1670 and is considered one of the pioneering houses of the Port trade. Today Warre's is owned by the famous Symington family. Warre's Port is the first and oldest Port brand in the world, having been shipped continuously since 1750. Very dark inky and concentrated colour. Lovely fresh aromas of violets. Layer and layer of ripe blackberry fruit, intensely rich and full bodied. Sweetness and tannins bind this wine together to form a perfect harmonious structure.