Bryan Martin has been producing thought-provoking wines in Murrumbateman wine country since 2001. Their Estate vineyard is managed sustainably, focusing on soil health, and foregoing synthetic chemicals, herbicides, and fertilisers. Fruit is also sourced for their Regional Series from the surrounding Young, Hilltops & Canberra District regions. The 2022 Regional Sangiovese marks the 20th vintage producing this varietal, with fruit sourced primarily from the Hilltops region with a splash of Murrumbateman for elegance. After spending 3 weeks on skins as whole-berries, the wine is pressed to small 5 year old French oak casks for élevage, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Bryan Martin has always had a soft spot for Italian grapes, and his latest Fiano makes it pretty clear why. Sourced from the sun-soaked Hilltops, just north of the Canberra District, this is a white wine with some real depth behind its good-time glow. Fiano’s naturally high acidity and gentle savoury edges play right into Bryan’s texture-focused winemaking style. It’s pressed straight to old puncheons for wild ferment and a long rest on lees, which gives the wine weight and detail without muting the freshness. Think white stone fruit, a flicker of lemon rind, maybe even a little almondy waxiness - all tied up with a saline snap that makes you want another sip. This isn’t a showy white, but it’s full of character. A little Mediterranean flair, made with care, and built for drinking any time: from sunny lunches to seafood dinners and everything in between.

Zin-Zin Baby is Bryan Martin’s playful spin on Primitivo, sourced from a small, sun-soaked vineyard that gives naturally generous fruit. 2024 was all about keeping that richness in check – the grapes were picked on the earlier side, then given a gentle ferment to keep tannins supple and the wine fresh. It’s plush and dark-fruited, with blackberries, plums and a little spice, but there’s enough acidity to stop it from feeling heavy. The style is all about drinkability – full of flavour, not weighed down, and dangerously easy to pour another glass. Made in small quantities and with Bryan’s usual light touch, it’s Primitivo that’s more about energy than sheer power. Best enjoyed young while it’s bursting with fruit.

RAVENSWORTH Charlie Foxtrot Gamay Noir, Murrumbateman

Bryan Martin continues to eke out some of the most interesting wines that NSW has to offer. This is his Gamay Noir, and surprise, surprise, it is a belter. When a Tumbarumba grower called him up in 2015 with some fruit on offer, Martin jumped at the chance. And since the epic success of the first release, a wine that James Halliday said, "No gamay has previously been made equal to this in Australia", Martin has only refined his stylings further with this much-loved variety. This falls under the Ravensworth heading of 'weird stuff'. It's definitely left of centre but boy is it dangerously gluggable. If you're looking for something bright and fun to drink, this is going to thrill you to bits! "There’s more to it than just another early drinking red, the structure and complexity will see it emerge as an impressive wine with a little age, if you can wait that long." - Bryan Martin