How can something that is so light in alcohol have such incredible palate weight and texture? It's an art form and Ernst Loosen is a master. The Kabinett style means a decent lick of residual sugar, but the steely, crunchy acid means you'll hardly notice it. Simply stunning.

Almond and vanilla cream are co-mingled with melon and apple on a palate of satiny, lees-enhanced richness and vivid buoyancy. This manages to soothe and refresh in an unbeatable if not inimitable 2008 way, with brown spices and crushed stone adding complexity to its lingering finish.

The current vintage of Dr. L Riesling evokes a walk through an orchard in the late summer: luscious pear, peach and apple aromas retain the crisp sweet tart quality of ripening fruit just before harvest. Highly recommended