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DOMAINE MOREAU-NAUDET Pargues Vieille Vignes, Chablis

Mayacamas is famed today for its thrilling and ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon, but the estate’s journey to Napa Valley icon status was propelled by acclaim for its Chardonnay. The first Chardonnay vines—all Wente clone—went in the ground at the property in 1975. After the estate’s sale in 2013 to the Schottenstein family, extensive replanting saw the retention of this classic US Chardonnay clone, supplemented by a few blocks of Dijon. The Chardonnay blocks are scattered throughout the 475-acre property (only 50 are planted to vines) and sit on various soil profiles (volcanic ash, gravelly loam, cobbled clay) at different elevations (550-650 metres) and aspects. This mélange of topographical features and clonal material paints a picture of the site, takes a snapshot in time and consistently results in a harmonious and balanced wine with mountainous character and experience-led charm. Each block is picked separately in the cool early morning, and multiple passes are made to ensure only perfectly ripe, healthy fruit makes the cut. In the cellar, the fruit is hand-sorted and pressed predominantly (95%) as whole clusters at very low pressure. The juice is cold-settled and racked to old barrels for a long, cool primary fermentation. Importantly—and unusually for the region—malolactic conversion is inhibited at Mayacamas; it has been this way since the Bob Travers days from the 1970s to the 2000s. This gives a beautiful racy character to the broad and powerful framework of fruit. The wine then rests in barrels of various sizes with no stirring for 12 months. The use of new oak is also negligible at just one or two barrels per year… Cali Chardonnay without the make-up, if you like!

Olivier Leflaive was co-manager of Domaine Leflaive until 1994 before withdrawing to concentrate on his own venture which he started in 1985. Today the domaine produces wine from some 65 appellations with 85% of the production being white wine. One of Burgundys most respected producers the estate produces a number of domaine wines from its own vineyards alongside its range of negocé bottlings. This Chardonnay is a wine with a fine aromatic intensity of almond, hazelnut, apple and a nice balance between smoothness and freshness on the palate.

Yarra Yering, well known for their pristine and elegant red wines, also make one of the Yarra Valley's premier Chardonnays. Made solely from the original 1969 plantings, the Yarra Yering Chardonnay is fermented traditionally in open top fermenters and crafted to age in bottle for extended periods. The wine goes through 100% malolactic fermentation which adds complexity and roundness without foregoing natural acidity and structure. Aged in 40% new French oak, this classic white wine combines intense opulence with finesse & textural flintiness.

As Australian Chardonnay continues its re-emergence, Vasse Felix Heytesbury is firmly leading the charge with its complex, modern style that has seen the winemaking team take home a cabinet full of trophies and gold medals in recent years. 100% wild yeast fermented and matured in French oak for only nine months, there is a power and persistence that is unmistakable. A flavour cavalcade of matchstick, citrus, white peach and grapefruit alongside a subtle toasty, nutty aspect from the sublime oak regime. The finish of this remarkable example will leave you in no doubt to this wines pedigree and ageability. Sheer classic.