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Launched in 1998 with the 1995 vintage, Yattarna is the result of one of the most comprehensive, focused and highly publicised wine development projects ever conducted in Australia. The aspiration and independence of mind across generations of Penfolds winemakers inspired the ambition to create a white wine that would set the standard for ultra-fine Australian chardonnay. Selectively sourcing only the very best chardonnay fruit from cool-climate regions, coupled with clever winemaking, the style continues to evolve. Yattarna reflects Penfolds patience and continued commitment to its original goal, its very name being drawn from local indigenous language, meaning little by little, gradually. Each vintage provides the opportunity to further raise the quality bar.

Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn mostly from 20 to 30 year old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both in the south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru Vaugiraut). All up, the domaine has the luxury of working with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, which perennially helps Moreau deliver a Chablis greater than the sum of its parts. The Chablis was picked over various dates, depending on the plot. The fruit was subject to a very gentle four-hour press, and the juice was fermented with natural yeasts (a rarity in Chablis). It was raised mostly in tank, yet the élevage was unhurried. This spent 20 months on lees, considerably longer than most Chablis of this level. These traditional methods, along with hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, low yields and the full ripeness levels at which the fruit is harvested help to explain the mouth coating texture, salty depths and the quality that is on offer.

Armand Heitz has made enormous strides in the relatively short time he has been in control of the family domaine. Formed in the 1980's as Domaine Heitz-Lochardet, since 2019 the wines have been labelled as Domaine Armand Heitz to better reflect how much progress Armand has made since began the winemaking following his studies in 2011. His viticulture philosophy is holistic, with permaculture and even livestock on the property ensuring a strong biodiversity for his vines. Winemaking is classic, including whole cluster fermentations, and the resultant wines are expressive and pure in style.

Mayacamas is famed today for its thrilling and ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon, but the estate’s journey to Napa Valley icon status was propelled by acclaim for its Chardonnay. The first Chardonnay vines—all Wente clone—went in the ground at the property in 1975. After the estate’s sale in 2013 to the Schottenstein family, extensive replanting saw the retention of this classic US Chardonnay clone, supplemented by a few blocks of Dijon. The Chardonnay blocks are scattered throughout the 475-acre property (only 50 are planted to vines) and sit on various soil profiles (volcanic ash, gravelly loam, cobbled clay) at different elevations (550-650 metres) and aspects. This mélange of topographical features and clonal material paints a picture of the site, takes a snapshot in time and consistently results in a harmonious and balanced wine with mountainous character and experience-led charm. Each block is picked separately in the cool early morning, and multiple passes are made to ensure only perfectly ripe, healthy fruit makes the cut. In the cellar, the fruit is hand-sorted and pressed predominantly (95%) as whole clusters at very low pressure. The juice is cold-settled and racked to old barrels for a long, cool primary fermentation. Importantly—and unusually for the region—malolactic conversion is inhibited at Mayacamas; it has been this way since the Bob Travers days from the 1970s to the 2000s. This gives a beautiful racy character to the broad and powerful framework of fruit. The wine then rests in barrels of various sizes with no stirring for 12 months. The use of new oak is also negligible at just one or two barrels per year… Cali Chardonnay without the make-up, if you like!

This Premier Cru is found mid-slope on the border between Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. The slope is very regular at between 3% and 6% and the soil is clay limestone with red earth. The subsoil is a mixture of earth and flat volcanic rock which allows an extensive root system to develop. These conditions bring finesse and a touch of minerality to the wine.