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Armand Heitz has made enormous strides in the relatively short time he has been in control of the family domaine. Formed in the 1980's as Domaine Heitz-Lochardet, since 2019 the wines have been labelled as Domaine Armand Heitz to better reflect how much progress Armand has made since began the winemaking following his studies in 2011. His viticulture philosophy is holistic, with permaculture and even livestock on the property ensuring a strong biodiversity for his vines. Winemaking is classic, including whole cluster fermentations, and the resultant wines are expressive and pure in style.

Mayacamas is famed today for its thrilling and ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon, but the estate’s journey to Napa Valley icon status was propelled by acclaim for its Chardonnay. The first Chardonnay vines—all Wente clone—went in the ground at the property in 1975. After the estate’s sale in 2013 to the Schottenstein family, extensive replanting saw the retention of this classic US Chardonnay clone, supplemented by a few blocks of Dijon. The Chardonnay blocks are scattered throughout the 475-acre property (only 50 are planted to vines) and sit on various soil profiles (volcanic ash, gravelly loam, cobbled clay) at different elevations (550-650 metres) and aspects. This mélange of topographical features and clonal material paints a picture of the site, takes a snapshot in time and consistently results in a harmonious and balanced wine with mountainous character and experience-led charm. Each block is picked separately in the cool early morning, and multiple passes are made to ensure only perfectly ripe, healthy fruit makes the cut. In the cellar, the fruit is hand-sorted and pressed predominantly (95%) as whole clusters at very low pressure. The juice is cold-settled and racked to old barrels for a long, cool primary fermentation. Importantly—and unusually for the region—malolactic conversion is inhibited at Mayacamas; it has been this way since the Bob Travers days from the 1970s to the 2000s. This gives a beautiful racy character to the broad and powerful framework of fruit. The wine then rests in barrels of various sizes with no stirring for 12 months. The use of new oak is also negligible at just one or two barrels per year… Cali Chardonnay without the make-up, if you like!

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay displays an initial bouquet of slate and wet stone, with nuances of lightly roasted almonds. Subtle hints of citrus, shrouded by nectarine and nashi pear fruits. On the palate, a spiced multi-citrus compote with a very delicate acidity. Balanced and will develop exceptionally well with cellaring.

Since their inception in 1797, the family of Maison Louis Latour have been synonymous with quality Burgundy wines from their entry-level all the way to their highly sought after Grand Cru wines.

PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune blanc