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Is this Australia's best Chardonnay? If not then it shares the rarified air reserved for only the finest examples. Rich yet restrained, with mineral notes, cashew and almond meal, amazing fruit complexity and wonderful length...why not try the benchmark?

DOMAINE MOREAU-NAUDET Pargues Vieille Vignes, Chablis

PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune blanc

Launched in 1998 with the 1995 vintage, Yattarna is the result of one of the most comprehensive, focused and highly publicised wine development projects ever conducted in Australia. The aspiration and independence of mind across generations of Penfolds winemakers inspired the ambition to create a white wine that would set the standard for ultra-fine Australian chardonnay. Selectively sourcing only the very best chardonnay fruit from cool-climate regions, coupled with clever winemaking, the style continues to evolve. Yattarna reflects Penfolds patience and continued commitment to its original goal, its very name being drawn from local indigenous language, meaning little by little, gradually. Each vintage provides the opportunity to further raise the quality bar.

Domaine Bernard Defaix has been family-run for four generations, with a long-held focus on expressing the unique identity of each Chablis cru. Bougros is one of the seven Chablis Grands Crus, lying on the western edge of the slope near the river, where the soils are shallow and rich in Kimmeridgian limestone. The domaine farms organically and harvests by hand. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, with a proportion of older oak barrels used for ageing, lending texture without overt oak character. Each vintage of Bougros shows a firm mineral spine and a savoury, saline edge. The nose offers notes of preserved lemon, green apple, and oyster shell, while the palate brings tension and length, with citrus and chalky drive. Bernard’s sons, Sylvain and Didier, now lead the winemaking, continuing the estate’s work in vineyard-focused precision and restrained, site-led expression. This is a benchmark Grand Cru with a consistent record for age-worthiness and clarity.

This is an outstanding example of a white Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru. Formerly planted with Pinot Noir, this plot was grubbed up in January 1988, after producing good yields for 45 years, and replanted with Chardonnay in 1990. This change illustrates Chassagne-Montrachet's shift towards white wines dating from the 1980s in the light of the strong worldwide demand for Chardonnay-based wines. Not all the plots in Chassagne Montrachet are suited to this grape variety, however, and every change must be made in conformity with the appellation laws (to ensure quality) and in full respect of the terroir and its uniqueness. Thus, Chardonnay was only planted in this vineyard after careful consideration, producing its first vintage of white wine in 1992.