DOMAINE JEAN NOEL GAGNARD Grand Lys Extra Brut Chardonnay, Cremant de Bourgogne

Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn mostly from 20 to 30 year old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both in the south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru Vaugiraut). All up, the domaine has the luxury of working with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, which perennially helps Moreau deliver a Chablis greater than the sum of its parts. The Chablis was picked over various dates, depending on the plot. The fruit was subject to a very gentle four-hour press, and the juice was fermented with natural yeasts (a rarity in Chablis). It was raised mostly in tank, yet the élevage was unhurried. This spent 20 months on lees, considerably longer than most Chablis of this level. These traditional methods, along with hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, low yields and the full ripeness levels at which the fruit is harvested help to explain the mouth coating texture, salty depths and the quality that is on offer.

Many of us wine drinkers have a soft spot for Chablis. Its with great reason too, given our climate and affi nity with seafood. A little over two months ago, we were thrilled when this wine hit our shores for the first time following a selective buying trip. Once again, it showcased its undisputed quality and notoriety in our tasting sessions. Established in 1850, this small family owned domain is the proven choice of so many when it comes to great Chablis. The estate comprises a mere 45 hectares of vines scattered throughout the region, grown on the famous Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Textbook in expression and style, super fi ne and elegant, this 2013 has perfectly poised, piercing acidity. This drives superb length of flavour on the featherweight light palate. Is there a better oyster wine?

Set in the township of Beine, Ligneau is a Premier Cru-classified wine of Chablis. Typically Vau Lignau is extremely energetic, tonic, fine and elegant, its freshness is a reflection of its difficult and windy terroir, with structured minerality and a very elegant finish. The 2019 vintage is a wonderful vintage and a great example of Ligneau it is slightly softer acidity and more approachable when young offers good value for money at its best with a pronounced mineral character that enhances the fruit and fine vegetal flavours.

Margaret River is a world renowned Chardonnay producing region and Pierro can rightfully stake a claim as to why. Incredibly complex, it is a tangle of fine-boned acid, lees complexity, pristine fruit and the most detailed use of good quality oak. Extremely enjoyable now, but will benefit from short to medium term cellaring.

Is this Australia's best Chardonnay? If not then it shares the rarified air reserved for only the finest examples. Rich yet restrained, with mineral notes, cashew and almond meal, amazing fruit complexity and wonderful length...why not try the benchmark?

Hunting Hill is situated on the hillside just opposite the winery and produces beautifully floral and perfumed Chardonnay with a distinctly liner and long palate.

A fine-boned Chardonnay that reflects vintage conditions and the character of a unique vineyard site purchased by Shaw + Smith in 2012. Inaugural vintage: 2014. Planted in 1999, the vineyard has east and west facing aspects and reaches 500 meters above sea level. The soil is brown loam over clay with some broken shale and stone on the ridges. The wine is100% hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed, then fermented and matured on lees in 500-litre French oak puncheons (30% new) for 9 months.