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Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn mostly from 20 to 30 year old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both in the south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru Vaugiraut). All up, the domaine has the luxury of working with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, which perennially helps Moreau deliver a Chablis greater than the sum of its parts. The Chablis was picked over various dates, depending on the plot. The fruit was subject to a very gentle four-hour press, and the juice was fermented with natural yeasts (a rarity in Chablis). It was raised mostly in tank, yet the élevage was unhurried. This spent 20 months on lees, considerably longer than most Chablis of this level. These traditional methods, along with hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, low yields and the full ripeness levels at which the fruit is harvested help to explain the mouth coating texture, salty depths and the quality that is on offer.

Vat 47 from the Hunter Valley has a silky bouquet of melon stone fruit and creamy oak that is followed by a palate of extraordinary balance and length. An absolute classic and will only get better with some medium term ageing.

DOMAINE MOREAU-NAUDET Pargues Vieille Vignes, Chablis

Montée de Tonnerre is often regarded as the most complete of the Chablis Premier Crus, and Domaine Bernard Defaix has a long-standing reputation for producing serious, age-worthy wines from this site. Located just east of the Grands Crus, the vineyard shares a similar exposure and Kimmeridgian soils, giving wines of depth and line. The Defaix family has farmed organically here since 2009. Fermentation and maturation occur in a blend of stainless steel and older oak, imparting structure without overt wood influence. Each year, the wine exhibits a clear saline line, with notes of citrus, fennel, and oyster shell on the nose, followed by a mouthful of white stone fruit, a mineral cut, and a long, tapering finish. It opens up well with time in bottle and comfortably rewards cellaring. For those who prize Chablis with both detail and drive, this is a benchmark example of the style and the Montée de Tonnerre vineyard.

Domaine Bernard Defaix is a fourth-generation family estate with deep roots in the Chablis region. Their holdings in Montmains, one of the region's best-regarded Premier Cru sites, lie on Kimmeridgian clay-limestone soils and consistently produce wines of clarity and drive. The fruit is hand-harvested and fermented with native yeasts. A portion of the wine is aged in older oak barrels, while the rest is aged in stainless steel, striking a balance between structure and freshness. Each vintage shows the signature Montmains profile: citrus peel, oyster shell, and green apple on the nose, followed by a palate that's taut, stony and long. There's no excess weight here, just a clear line from vineyard to glass. Bernard Defaix's Chablis has become a dependable name for those who seek Premier Cru quality without the complications. A wine to enjoy now or cellar for several years, particularly in stronger vintages. Serve it cool, alongside shellfish or roast chicken.