Suenen crafts just a single 600-litre demi-muid of this cuvée. It originates from a parcel of particularly low-yielding vines planted in Chouilly’s renowned Le Mont-Aigu terroir, near the Cramant border on the Butte de Saran. Now more than 45 years of age, these old vines suffer from fanleaf virus, resulting in tiny leaves, roots and bunches. Coupled with skeletal soils (just 35 cm of topsoil over pure chalk), this results in a deep yet compact expression of Chouilly that is unlike any other. Expect flesh and concentrated ripeness yet also chiselled structure and intense, saline minerality.

The most northern of Suenen’s Oiry parcels, La Cocluette is also home to the domaine’s oldest vines (planted in 1925), a site where the ancient roots bury deep into the dense Campanian chalk (the younger plantings from this site go into the Oiry Blanc de Blancs). Vines of this age are as rare as hens’ teeth in Champagne, and they gift tiny yields of concentrated berries. The land here is largely flat with a somewhat northern exposure. Here the base wine fermented naturally and aged for nine months in one 700-litre concrete egg and one 600-litre Stockinger barrel (the same that is used each year). It then aged sur lies for 60 months in bottle until disgorgement in July 2022, when it was dosed with 3 g/L. Suenen explains that the wines from this vineyard express themselves with great finesse. “The energy brought by this calcium-rich terroir makes the mouthfeel richer through a silky bubble. With time, the finish lengthens on a salivating mineral vibrancy.” Put another way, this is a more intense and complex expression of this region’s naked-chalk terroir than the NV Oiry

Disgorged May 2023. Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils, and so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name here refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites, i.e. a more linear, mineral wine. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness. William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines (40% from their perpetual reserve started in 2004) should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This bottling is based on the 2018 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

The Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Cramant (Disg. Jul 2023) 2018 is a delightful expression of the terroir of Champagne, France. Crafted by the renowned winemaker Raphael Bereche, this vintage 2018 is a true testament to his skill and expertise. On the nose, this Champagne reveals aromas of fresh green apples, ripe white peaches, and delicate white flowers, with subtle hints of brioche and toasted almonds. The pale straw color is accented by fine, persistent bubbles, creating a mesmerizing visual display. On the palate, this Grand Cru Cramant offers a perfect balance between freshness and creaminess, with a lively acidity and a smooth, silky texture. Flavors of citrus, apricot, and honey are complemented by a touch of minerality, leading to a long, elegant finish. Overall, the Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Cramant (Disg. Jul 2023) 2018 is a stunning example of the quality and complexity that can be achieved in a Champagne. It is a must-try for any wine lover and will surely leave a lasting impression.

Dominated by Chardonnay, Brut Régence has a great aromatic finesse and embodies Brimoncourt’s spirit and signature. It is a gallant wine all the more seducing with its freshness, round texture and delicately fruity finish. The dominant Chardonnay feature creates a delicate, subtle and very elegant bouquet. It reveals white flowers aroma and charming fruity notes thanks to the Pinot Noir. Its affirmed minerality gives it distinction and nobility. The well-rounded mouth is enjoyable; a dash of freshness invigorates the palate and brings out a beautiful, ample and complex structure with a good length in mouth. Its fineness and elegance call for sharing. Best savoured on a lime and sea bass tartar, a langoustine ceviche, a poached turbot with mousseline sauce, melting scallops on braised leeks and of course and above all, as a shared aperitif.

Its superb maturity tantalizes all the senses with a deep pink robe highlighted with glints of copper, an extremely delicate persistent effervescence, a nose of crushed strawberries, lime and liquorice underlined by a hint of roast coffee and cacao. The palate is entranced by a variation of gourmet sensations. The fresh, precise and taut attack gives way to reveal a supple, molten and heady structure. The finish imparts fruity notes underscored by a saline freshness. With the purity of its precise, gourmet aromatic structure, the Comtes de Champagne Rosé is perfectly in line with its predecessors and promises to offer excellent ageing potential.

Champagne authority Peter Liem writes that “among all Champagne villages, Aӱ is the most historically esteemed… Today, its terroir is still just as storied, and its grapes are sought after by winemakers across the region.” It is perhaps no surprise that the poet Alfred de Vigny declared in 1853 that “the mousse of Aÿ radiates happiness”. From a Grand Cru where Pinot Noir reigns supreme, Bérêche’s cuvée is sourced from less than a hectare of 40+-year-old vines at 280 metres’ elevation in the cool parcels of Brise Pot and Froide-Terre, bordering Mutigny in Grande Vallée de la Marne, where thin topsoils (at a maximum of 30cm) rest over dense Campanian chalk. Pinot Noir (75%) and Chardonnay (25%) fermented slowly in barrels and aged on lees in bottle for 78 months. The dosage was under 3 g/L. It’s a striking, penetrating Champagne whose depth of crystalline white fruits and soft spices is matched by its sinewy, chalky length and cut-glass precision. A flat-out stunner.

The 2015 vintage of Mailly Grand Cru Les Échansons is a stunning expression of Champagne from the esteemed Champagne Mailly Grand Cru estate in France. Upon pouring, the wine reveals a pale straw colour with delicate bubbles dancing to the surface. On the nose, aromas of ripe yellow apples, freshly baked brioche, and a hint of lemon zest entice the senses. The palate is greeted with a creamy effervescence, followed by flavours of crisp green apples, toasted almonds, and a touch of honey. The finish is long and refreshing, leaving a lingering sensation of minerality and citrus notes. This is a complex and elegant Champagne that will continue to evolve with age, making it a standout choice for any special occasion. Enjoy now or cellar for a few years to experience even greater depth and complexity.

The Champagne Bérêche et Fils Grand Cru Mailly Champagne Blanc de Noirs (Disg. Jul 2023) 2018 is an exquisite offering from esteemed winemaker Raphael Bereche in the Champagne region of France. Crafted from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, this Blanc de Noirs showcases a beautiful pale gold color with delicate bubbles dancing in the glass. On the nose, enticing aromas of ripe red apples, brioche, and hints of toasted almonds greet the senses. The palate is elegant and complex, with flavors of stone fruits, lemon zest, and a touch of minerality leading to a long, crisp finish. This vintage 2018 Champagne is a true representation of the Grand Cru terroir of Mailly and will only continue to improve with age. Enjoy now or cellar for even greater depth and complexity. Salut!