'We are tasting the Tyrrell's 2006 Vat 1 semillon, a Hunter Valley wine which, at sevenyears old, is still a juvenile, easily capable of another decade of good drinking. Its longevity is at the very heart of what makes it so astounding. To think of it as a one-year-old is a different story: gangly, acid, water and neutral flavour, not astounding. Vat 1 also shows us you don't have to pay big dollars for greatness.' - Canberra Times, Jeni Port, 10 Apr 2013. Extract from 'What makes a great wine?'

This 20ha vineyard was planted on red clay loam soil at Woori Yallock in 2001 by Lou Primavera, with whom Giant Steps has a long-standing grape-supply relationship. Pinot Noir (114, MV6 and G8V3 clones) grown here on the north and north east facing slopes at 230m is noted for its complex structure and pronounced perfume. The 114 and MV6 are fermented as whole bunches in open vats, while the G8V3 is destemmed, given a long cold-soak and fermented separately to enhance its aromatic contribution. All ferments use indigenous yeasts and the whole-bunch components are periodically foot-stomped to release additional juice. The wines are pressed to 228 litre, French barriques (about 8% new) for 11 months before blending and bottling without fining or filtration.

This superb Pinot Noir shows what heights can be reached when modestly priced wines are produced in outstanding vintages. Expect a red and dark cherry fragrance with a hint of spice. It's light bodied with earthy flavours of red berries delivered with finesses one of the finest producers of the 'Fronsac' appellation. Predominantly Merlot, there's supreme depth of dark fruit, together with the 'polished' structure so synonymous with the 2012 vintage.

Graacher Himmelreich is a renowned vineyard that borders the southern edge of its more famous neighbour Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The Spatlese examples typically show lime and lemon sherbety aromas with savoury and honeyed overtones and pronounced slately minerality carried along by signature Mosel racy acidity.

TRIMBACH Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling, Ribeauville

Compelling and convincing, with florals, currants and blackberries, not too sweet; it has a savoury edge, with the oak seamlessly integrated. Perfectly ripe tannins with poise and presence ensure that this is lovely now, but will be more so in years to come.

Named of the sundial erected in the vineyard in 1842, Wehlener Sonnenuhr is the most famous vineyard in the Mosel. Extremely steep with optimal south-south west exposure, it yields fragrantly floral wines with ripe stone fruit aromas, underlying slately minerality and wonderful depth of flavour and structure. The Spatlese wines are very reticent in youth, blossoming between two and four years of age to display vibrant green apple, and white stone-fruit notes supported by a backbone of racy acidity.