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Disg. Sep 23. First released in 1998, long before the concept of single-vineyard Champagnes became popular, this Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Little has changed, save for the name, which is now inspired by 1960-planted Bourron du Levant, the vineyard from which most of the grapes come. The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir Le Fond du Bâteau (with 85-year-old vines). Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but you have more flesh, weight and body here. The winemaking is similar across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic fermentation, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. The 2014 was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

The 2017 Champagne Suenen Montigny sur Vesle La Grande Vigne Meunier (Disg. TBA) is a true reflection of its terroir, showcasing the unique character of the Montigny sur Vesle region in Champagne, France. This wine, crafted by the renowned Suenen estate, is a stunning example of a single varietal Meunier champagne from the exceptional 2017 vintage. On the nose, delicate aromas of ripe red apples, juicy pears, and fragrant white flowers dance gracefully with hints of toasted brioche and subtle mineral notes. The pale golden hue in the glass is a sight to behold, leading to a palate that is both elegant and complex. Flavors of crisp apples and pears are joined by a touch of honeyed sweetness and a refreshing acidity, balanced perfectly by a creamy, lingering finish. This champagne is a true masterpiece, showcasing the skill and passion of Suenen's winemaking. It is a must-try for all champagne lovers.

The Champagne Larmandier Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs (Disg. TBC) 2015 is an exceptional representation of a premier cru Champagne from the renowned Larmandier-Bernier estate in France. This 1500ml bottle, produced in the exceptional 2015 vintage, showcases the true essence of the terroir in which it was grown. On the nose, this Champagne offers an enticing bouquet of fresh citrus, green apple, and delicate floral notes. The pale golden colour is a testament to the wine's purity and elegance. On the palate, the Champagne Larmandier Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs delivers a crisp and refreshing experience, with a perfect balance of zesty acidity and creamy texture. Flavors of lemon, pear, and brioche dance on the palate, leading to a long and satisfying finish. Overall, this Champagne is a true expression of the Larmandier-Bernier house style, showcasing their commitment to producing exceptional wines that capture the essence of Champagne. A true delight for any Champagne lover.

Disg. Apr 2024. Les Chemins d’Avize debuted in 2009. For this cuvée, the Larmandier family vinifies fruit from two tiny plots in the heart of Avize (Chemin de Plivot, planted in 1955, and Chemin de Flavigny, planted in 1960). Both are chalky parcels with very little topsoil and lie on the lower slopes of Avize, not far from Agrapart and Selosse’s La Fosse vineyard. “Initially, it was really tough for the vines to grow here, the soil is so hard,” Arthur Larmandier told us. “Now, they make really, really great wines.” The winemaking is similar to the other cuvées, save for the use of smaller, neutral barrels due to the smaller quantities of wine produced. The wines age in bottle for a minimum of five years and are then disgorged by hand with only 2 g/L dosage. It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than Terre de Vertus, though more delicate and less fleshy than this grower’s Vieille Vigne du Levant.

Disgorged November 2022. Petit Meslier has formed an integral part of Aurélien Laherte’s Les 7 cuvée for almost 20 vintages. One of Champagne’s heirloom varieties, Meslier is a historic cross between Gouais Blanc and Savagnin. Although it has been largely forgotten in Champagne, the Laherte family has remained attached to the grape’s personality and its ability to retain acidity, even in warmer vintages. Between 2014 and 2018, Laherte established a mid-slope vineyard on Chavot’s clay/limestone soils, using massal cuttings from the domaine’s oldest Meslier vines. This wine marks the third release of this exciting project. The grapes are pressed in Laherte’s antique Coquard press, and the juice ferments naturally in old barrel. The wine ages for six months on lees in barrel and then a further 18 months sur lattes. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage with 40% reserve wines and was disgorged by hand with just 2 g/L dosage (extra brut). When Domaine Didier Dagueneau decided to craft a sparkling wine in Pouilly-Fumé (yet to be released), Benjamin Dagueneau chose Petit Meslier as its hero. From the first glass, it’s clear why Laherte and Dagueneau have decided to put their faith in this unique, forgotten variety. Champagne thrill seekers should not hesitate.