How can something that is so light in alcohol have such incredible palate weight and texture? It's an art form and Ernst Loosen is a master. The Kabinett style means a decent lick of residual sugar, but the steely, crunchy acid means you'll hardly notice it. Simply stunning.

Almond and vanilla cream are co-mingled with melon and apple on a palate of satiny, lees-enhanced richness and vivid buoyancy. This manages to soothe and refresh in an unbeatable if not inimitable 2008 way, with brown spices and crushed stone adding complexity to its lingering finish.

Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Riesling is an evocatively named wine from the stable of sustainable living exponent, Matt Fowles. Sourced from family owned estate vineyards high up in the Strathbogie Ranges in Central Victoria, the 'Ladies' Riesling is able to contain the perfect acid levels to produce an aromatic white of utmost power and austerity. Not lacking in any complexity or texture, this is a food style Riesling that will drink nicely tonight or sit comfortably in the cellar for the next 3 to 4 years.

The fruit for this Onannon Mornington Pinot Gris was handpicked and pressed immediately into the tank. It is then settled overnight and racked to both tank and old barrels. A cool fermentation took place over two months during which the wine was stirred regularly to increase texture. Resulting in wine with great aromas such as ripe pears, mixed stone fruits with hints of cooked green apple in the background. It then leads to a full flavoured, textured palate with a delightful finish.

A quite amazing wine. Gains weight and texture from ultra low yield, highly concentrated fruit and a combination of fermentation methods.

In the glass: Pale lemon green. On the nose: Lime, green apple and jasmine.On the palate: Bone dry and extremely mouth-watering with layers of lime, green apple and jasmine and faint chalky notes on the finish.