Suenen crafts just a single 600-litre demi-muid of this cuvée. It originates from a parcel of particularly low-yielding vines planted in Chouilly’s renowned Le Mont-Aigu terroir, near the Cramant border on the Butte de Saran. Now more than 45 years of age, these old vines suffer from fanleaf virus, resulting in tiny leaves, roots and bunches. Coupled with skeletal soils (just 35 cm of topsoil over pure chalk), this results in a deep yet compact expression of Chouilly that is unlike any other. Expect flesh and concentrated ripeness yet also chiselled structure and intense, saline minerality.

The most northern of Suenen’s Oiry parcels, La Cocluette is also home to the domaine’s oldest vines (planted in 1925), a site where the ancient roots bury deep into the dense Campanian chalk (the younger plantings from this site go into the Oiry Blanc de Blancs). Vines of this age are as rare as hens’ teeth in Champagne, and they gift tiny yields of concentrated berries. The land here is largely flat with a somewhat northern exposure. Here the base wine fermented naturally and aged for nine months in one 700-litre concrete egg and one 600-litre Stockinger barrel (the same that is used each year). It then aged sur lies for 60 months in bottle until disgorgement in July 2022, when it was dosed with 3 g/L. Suenen explains that the wines from this vineyard express themselves with great finesse. “The energy brought by this calcium-rich terroir makes the mouthfeel richer through a silky bubble. With time, the finish lengthens on a salivating mineral vibrancy.” Put another way, this is a more intense and complex expression of this region’s naked-chalk terroir than the NV Oiry

Its superb maturity tantalizes all the senses with a deep pink robe highlighted with glints of copper, an extremely delicate persistent effervescence, a nose of crushed strawberries, lime and liquorice underlined by a hint of roast coffee and cacao. The palate is entranced by a variation of gourmet sensations. The fresh, precise and taut attack gives way to reveal a supple, molten and heady structure. The finish imparts fruity notes underscored by a saline freshness. With the purity of its precise, gourmet aromatic structure, the Comtes de Champagne Rosé is perfectly in line with its predecessors and promises to offer excellent ageing potential.

The Champagne Pascal Agrapart Grand Cru Vénus Blanc de Blancs 2019 (Disg. Jul 24) 2018 is a stunning expression of French excellence. This vintage 2018 wine hails from the renowned Champagne region of France and is produced by the esteemed Agrapart Maison. Upon first glance, the wine boasts a pale golden hue with delicate bubbles dancing in the glass. On the nose, aromas of fresh citrus, ripe peach, and subtle hints of brioche invite you in for a taste. On the palate, the wine is equally impressive with a rich and creamy texture, balanced by zesty acidity and flavors of green apple, lemon curd, and a touch of minerality. The finish is long and lingering, leaving you with a sense of elegance and sophistication. This Blanc de Blancs is a true gem, perfect for any special occasion or celebration.

Krug is well and truly one of the great wine experiences in the world. It is an exercise in balance and poise, being at once as fine and delicate as crystal and rich with meaty nuttiness. With an almost ethereal bead, there is plenty of toast, dried fruit and hazelnut complexity. Magnificent!

In the words of no less than James Halliday, "Krug is the greatest wine of Champagne". At the House of Krug every Vintage is crafted to be different. Every Krug Vintage reveals the expression of a particular year with its distinct character: it is the music of the year as captured by Krug. It is a blend of expressive wines from a single year enhanced by a stay of over ten years in the cellars. The result a manifestation of time, place and feeling that verily leaps from bottle to flute.