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CAROLINE LESTIME, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Sous Eguisons

The vineyards of Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (High Slopes of Beaune) may be 80% Pinot Noir but it is Chardonnay that occupies many of the best sites, like this one, Sous Eguisons (Under the cliff of Eguisons), bordering Saint-Aubin, facing south-east and protected from the cold northerly winds (and frosts) that can be hazardous at this relatively high altitude (430-450m). One hectare of roughly 10,000 vines are trained low and were planted between 2002 and 2005 in limestone-rich soil. Caroline Lestimé has enhanced the reputation of this fine producer since taking over from her famous father, Jean Noel Gagnard, in 1989. Jean Noel Gagnard handed his eponymous Domaine to his daughter Caroline Lestimé in 1989. She had studied business in Paris, before returning to the village to take over the reins of the family estate, and had to handle male chauvinism at its most rampant. Nonetheless, she has followed her own convictions, and enhanced (rather than diminished) the reputation of this fine producer. In the vineyard, she uses no fertilisers or herbicides, but has not taken hold of the biodynamic bible. - James Halliday

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