Disgorged July 2024. (Formerly known as Expérience). The price here reflects the demand for a cuvée that is utterly unique in the Champagne world and the rarity (there is next to none to go around). Finally, we should not forget that this is a wine style that is extremely difficult to make. First, some background for those new to this wine. In 2002, Agrapart sought and (remarkably) received permission from the local authorities to begin experimenting with a small quantity of wine that he wanted to produce without adding any sugar: no chaptalisation and no additions for the secondary fermentation’s liqueur de tirage (the tricky part), nor the final dosage (liqueur d’expédition). Not using sugar and yeast for the liqueur de tirage (to prompt the second fermentation in the bottle) is actually against the AOC laws, which is why Agrapart needed permission. So how does Agrapart achieve the bottle fermentation? Instead of sugar, he uses must (grape juice) from the same vineyards that produce the wine, thus enabling him to produce a Champagne that is 100% the product of estate-grown grapes. It is also a lower-alcohol wine because the absence of sugar additions means the alcohol does not jump 1.5 degrees, as typically occurs with standard secondary fermentation. So, this wine rests at around 11.8% alcohol compared with 12.5% for the rest of the range. It’s also a wine that can age well; we recently tasted the first vintage, 2007, from magnum at the estate. It was in wonderful shape! The current release is an equal-parts blend from vineyards that contributed to the Avizoise and Minéral cuvées (Les Robarts in Avize and Les Bionnes in Cramant), ‘dosed’ with around 20% of the juice of 2020 from these same vineyards. It is this juice that drives the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Again, no sugar or yeast additions are used for all fermentation, and the wine is never fined or filtered. Regardless of the methodology, this is simply a magnificent, one-of-a-kind Blanc de Blancs: complex, floral and crystalline—without the traditional autolytic notes of a standard tirage, but instead, a purity and delicacy that is second to none. The finish is seriously long as well, streaked with chalk, sap and candied lemon notes.

In some ways, this is the emblematic wine of the domaine. It was Michel Bettane, the influential French critic, who encouraged Francis Egly to bottle this single vineyard wine separately, with the first release being from the 1989 vintage. This latest offering was bottled after the 2016 base had spent close to one year in cask before being blended with 50% reserve wines from the 2015 vintage. All the vinification and aging for both vintages was in barrel. The fruit comes from old Pinot Noir vines in a single terroir known as Les Crayères. The vines here were planted in 1946, so are now 75 years old (vines of this age are extremely rare in Champagne). Here the soil is barely 30cm deep, then it’s chalk, hundreds of metres down—hence the name of the site (craie is French for ‘chalk’, crayères references chalk quarries which likely once existed here). Les Crayères is situated mid-slope with a full south-facing exposure, not far from the estate’s cellars. The old vines are deeply rooted, giving the wine a classic, mineral energy that weaves its way through the powerful, layered Pinot Noir fruit. The deep concentration is a product of the ripeness and low yields that both the site and its ancient vines naturally deliver. The 2016 base is both a tribute to the greatest sites of Ambonnay and to the Egly-Ouriet domaine. Houses that emphasise blending may consider a 100% old-vine Ambonnay like this to be too intense; Egly gives it to you full throttle! This release is a wine of profound depth yet also great finesse. It’s still early days for the nose (if you open it now, give it time) while the palate is already stunning; a chiselled, mineral mouth bomb. The dosage is only two grams per litre and it’s invisible. An expression of a singular terroir, this is, of course, a unique wine that is, as always, built for food and for aging.

Expect flesh and concentrated ripeness yet also chiselled structure and intense, saline minerality.

The Champagne Pascal Agrapart Grand Cru Vénus Blanc de Blancs 2019 (Disg. Jul 24) 2018 is a stunning expression of French excellence. This vintage 2018 wine hails from the renowned Champagne region of France and is produced by the esteemed Agrapart Maison. Upon first glance, the wine boasts a pale golden hue with delicate bubbles dancing in the glass. On the nose, aromas of fresh citrus, ripe peach, and subtle hints of brioche invite you in for a taste. On the palate, the wine is equally impressive with a rich and creamy texture, balanced by zesty acidity and flavors of green apple, lemon curd, and a touch of minerality. The finish is long and lingering, leaving you with a sense of elegance and sophistication. This Blanc de Blancs is a true gem, perfect for any special occasion or celebration.

The 2017 Champagne Suenen Cramant Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Robarts (Disg. TBA) is an exceptional vintage from the renowned region of Champagne, France. This sparkling wine is crafted by the talented Suenen family, who have perfected the art of Champagne production. The pale golden color is a true reflection of its high-quality craftsmanship. On the nose, delicate aromas of freshly baked brioche and toasted almonds mingle with hints of citrus and white flowers. The palate is a burst of vibrant flavors, showcasing zesty lemon, crisp green apple, and a touch of minerality. The fine and persistent bubbles dance on the tongue, leading to a long and elegant finish. This Champagne is a true expression of its terroir, and a must-try for any connoisseur. Enjoy chilled with oysters or a creamy cheese platter.