Tyrrell’s is among the leading exponents – many would say it is THE leading exponent – of Hunter Valley Semillon. Neil Stevens’ dry-grown Glenoak Vineyard is on Marrowbone Road, Pokolbin. Its oldest Semillon vines were planted in 1911 on mostly light, sandy soils. Bruce Tyrrell calls Glenoak a ‘sacred site’ to which he has access on the basis of a handshake deal strengthened by the long friendship between the two families involved. Stevens Vineyard Semillon is cool fermented and spends minimal time on yeast lees before being bottled early (with no oak fermentation or maturation) to maintain freshness. The nose typically shows fresh citrus and floral characters associated with the vineyard. The palate is dominated by lime characters with a mineral edge showing good length with a soft, approachable acid structure. Stevens Semillon is routinely held for release as a ‘semi-mature’ Hunter Semillon ‘with its wonderful balance between youth and age… a core of citrus fruit… the palate beginning to fill out with bottle age… the acid softening into a seamlessly structured wine’. The established use of screwcaps has led to a better understanding of the style, which typically begins to peak 10 years from vintage.